Monday, October 31, 2011

Playing Marco Polo In the Capital


One of the advantages or the self-prescribed benefits of living in a city and being trendy is finding places on the whimsy. If Sitcoms are to be believed our generation finds their Eden or Zen place completely by whimsy, like Central Perk a-la popular sitcom Friends. We just stumble into places either because they are close and convenient or we are out of options, and once stumbled we settle and that place becomes the “spot”, or at least that’s how it works on TV. When I find such a place I will be sure to inform you.

No, this entry will not be about how I discovered Narnia in Abuja; although it was certainly in the hopes of that that this particular consummate experience came about. Abuja as I have mentioned many times before is a City of many talents, and lends itself to discovery and definition. The road networks are easy enough to ply and traffic is manageable; the result of this is that you often zoom past several places or “spots” without paying it attention; it is therefore easy to discover somewhere that had always been there and have your own little Indiana Jones moment.
On a night that had seen me put more hours at the office than my contract stipulated or the International Labour Organisation permitted, I felt famished expectedly and decided I wanted to taste the orient, and still remain pocket friendly. Cheap Chinese, it was then. Getting to Chinese Express I was met with a sign informing me that they had shut down for renovation. Perfect!!!
It was then I remembered that I had heard of a Chinese Restaurant not too far from where I was, and I must have driven past that road on many occasions without ever noticing. And so began my consummate experience for the evening. The restaurant was easy enough to locate, being on a prominent road in the Maitaima District of Abuja, after disembarking I realised that the restaurant in question was Marcopolo of Lagos fame.

I was in the company of one of our regular guests here on CE, we walked in with open minds, vowing to judge the restaurant on its own merits and not in the shadow the Lagos establishment. First thing you notice when you walk in is the space and the use of space. Marcopolo is carved into a larger building, and if you weren’t looking for it, you might not find it. The restaurant is L-shaped and neatly arranged two person dining tables along the walls; the end result is very intimate; it is almost like the interior designer didn’t want you hearing other diner’s conversation or even smelling their food. It worked.

The lighting was especially dim, and they had been placed in oriental looking fabric paper with a reddish/clay hue- much like the CE at the Chinese Express, where I had originally intended to dine-, and the room was also separated in places by movable wooden partitions that weren’t ceiling high, so this meant that if you were tall enough you could actually spy on other patrons who felt they were being private. Taking the room in one glance it felt like a Geisha would come out from the partition at any moment.

We were seated and our waiter went off to bring our menus, in that time I gave the room another once-over to observe other diners, seated behind us was the customary Abuja socialite- at least that is the face he wore- and his female companion, who also gave me a once-over and concluded in that same instant that I wasn’t in the same social circle. The witch! (Please feel to replace the W with a B. Thanks). Sitting diagonally from my table was a young couple with a new-born child whom they couldn’t stop doting over. It was a nice visual, and somewhere in the back of the L-shaped space there was revelry of some kind, and that place had been partitioned off from us basic people.

The waiter arrived with the menus and the evening became even more interesting. Running a curious eye over some of the offerings I had to admit that they had covered the spread nicely from Cantonese to Sichuan and Jiangsu cuisine, but some of the helpings and prices were suspect. For instance the waiter and I got into it over their Shark Fin dish; firstly Abuja for all its glory is landlocked, most of the bodies of water in Abuja are manmade, and while it is just over an hour to Lokoja where most of the seafood is sourced from, I am pretty sure that there are no Great Whites lurking in the depths of the Niger and the Benue. Nothing is impossible though, after watching Nigerians give new meaning to Free Willy with the stranded whale in Lagos, it is quite possible that we have turned our appetites to other aquatic predators.

After a spirited conversation with the waiter where I made the observation that the menu was probably printed off the web, I asked him to give me more time to make my decision. I had a craving for a duck-based meal and flipped the menu over to that section, and had another reason to summon the waiter for a round two of a spirited conversation. Their Roasted Duck meal was set at N15, 000.00; I simply wanted to find out why the duck was so expensive, and waited calmly to hear if the duck in question was Donald Duck of Disney fame or perhaps his not so distant cousin Daffy of Looney Toon fame or perhaps the mascot from the Mighty Duck movie franchise, as it turned out the duck was none of the above, the waiter did however have some interesting insights on agro-economics.

He departed a third time, while I perused the menu for something reason satisfactory, I settled for the Black Peppered Beef on a hot plate and the summoned my waiter for round three of what had so far proven to be an interesting series. I also decided in his transit to start my meal with a “cup” of chicken and sweet corn soup. When he took down my menu, I enquired what the difference between a full bowl and a cup of soup was, and he quite sternly told me that the former was ideal for two people, and in the same breath told me he would cancel my large order as he felt I would waste the food and the medium was a better choice for me.

After I picked up my jaw from the floor, I proceeded to ask our nanny why he felt that I wasn’t capable of making my own choices, he matter-0f-factly reiterated that I would end up being wasteful and regretting my choice. I looked at Nanny Mcphee and I was twice his size and it happened on me to mention that the reason for this was because I indulged my palate, but you rarely meet people in businesses who aren’t eager to take money off you; I figured he must be a Deeper Life member, so I allowed him place the order as he saw best.

While we waited for the senior prefect to bring our meal back, the restaurant received more guests, it seemed the soiree in the back was an all ladies affair, and various women in various stages of undress came walking in, looking straight ahead, with the kind of steely determined hypocritical look you can only have when you are half naked and don’t want to catch people looking in the exact way that such dressing would inspire. We were in good company.

The meal finally arrived, hot plate and everything, and the moment of truth arrived as I waited to see just how much these generous waste-inducing portions were. Well, true to the description the cup of soup was indeed served with a cup helping and I still do not understand how the cup would have adequately served one person, unless of course that person also wears a bib and is still mastering motor skills. The soup was uninspired and lacked any memorable moments, and the sizzle of the hot plate was the only thing distinct about the black peppered beef. It was the equivalent of watching a movie trailer with the baritoned voice-over, only to walk into the cinema hall and discover that the movie was in fact freshly served manure. It was Tonto Dikeh till she opened her mouth. It was false advertising. I have tasted more inspired meals and this particular meal in other establishments; shout out to the Dragon Chinese Restaurant in Port Harcourt!!!

In the middle of my experience, I had forgotten to notice that our waiter had failed to deliver my companion’s dish and when he was summoned for round four, he informed us straight-faced that after my order he didn’t feel it was necessary to place the second order, as surely I couldn’t finish that meal on my own and he didn’t want waste. I concluded at that moment that surely he was a member of Deeper Life and was opposed to any form of self-indulgence or whimsy, like cable television, Ice-cream, breathing excess oxygen, Coca-Cola, extra helpings, having more children that required to till your farm, spare change and facial hair.

I convinced him to please place the order, it was shredded chicken in green pepper, but as if he wanted to prove the point the food arrived late, at which point we had finished the first meal and really didn’t have the appetite to continue with the second meal, before our waiter par excellence could break into a self-satisfied smile, I countered him and asked him to pack it for take-away. As I broke into my own self-satisfied smile, I almost shouted “checkmate dumbass!!!” but I decided to be civil.

As we waited for the take-away packs, one of the mannequins broke away from the crowd at the back to answer the phone, unfortunately she drifted towards the young couple and their new-born and I honestly cannot make this up, as soon as she came close enough the baby started shrieking. Now the more scientific or practical among you readers will say that’s a complete coincidence, but I have it on authority that babies can sense evil more accurately than adults, and that’s what I believe; her marine spirit upset the innocent child. The mother and father obviously shared my opinion; they caught me in stitches and had a giggle themselves. It was good to see that some people in this life hadn’t placed a ban on whimsy or humour.

No sooner had I bonded with perfect strangers over the marine spirit than the coven of winches (read: witches or emere or ogbanje) and fleet of marine spirits made their way out from the back, flaxen hair, bright prints and all. I didn’t make eye contact with any of them, I have watched enough Nollywood movies, I glanced around for my barometer of evil, but his mother had taken him outside to pacify him. Our takeaways packs arrived; I had a lively conversation with Lurch our waiter, settled the N10, 000.00 tab and walked out as the restaurant shut down.
As we walked out I wondered why I had not asked the waiter if he was a Deeper Life Christian, and reflected on a night borne completely out of whimsy and the subsequent rebel against the whimsical.
Marcopolo Chinese Restaurant is located at 70 Usuma Street, 911 Plaza, Maitiama, Abuja.