Showing posts with label Lagos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lagos. Show all posts

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Becoming a Member of The Clan

One defining characteristic of the Federal Capital is understatement; yes there are towers, grand structures, expensive cars and playgrounds for multimillionaires and billionaires, government pickpockets and expatriates; however it is never straightforward to tell who these people are. The City doesn’t lend itself to such revelations, apart from the red license plates of the diplomatic corps, the brandishing of Federal or State Government vehicles, the blue and white strip of Julius Berger, most people move about in anonymity.

Many of the more affluent assuming almost Bruce Wayne-esque characteristics; secret bad-guyses. Perhaps it has more to do with Northern culture than anything else- an Hausa man can have great wealth by all modern measures, and still take pride in driving a Japanese car and stepping out in modest attire- but Abuja, unlike its counterpart in Lagos doesn’t necessarily announce its wealthy, to be sure there are indicators but you have to look for them.

So it is only natural that the City has establishments that are strictly by membership and exclusive; places where these secret bad guyses/Bruce Wayne characters can meet over foreign wines and imported cigars and guffaw at their biblical-esque wealth, or perhaps sit across the room and play what I have aptly named “The I wonder how bad of a bad guys the other bad guy sitting across the room from me is?” admittedly I have to work on the name. But make no mistake Abuja people, particularly the men have become championship players, the rules of the game are simple,


  1. You walk into a room all aloof and pretend not to notice other patrons or anyone in general, although for expert players at this stage you would have scanned the area for all potential bad guyses, expert players will know never to stare, all this must be done from your periphery. Expert players will also know to scan the room for lesser bad guyses already established from a previous game, so you can pretend not to notice them notice you when you walk in and see how long it takes them to come say hello to you, and if they don’t you have more material to gossip with. It is an intricate game of details, suspicion and counter-suspicion.
  2.  Second you sit down, and regally flick your middle and index finger in the air in a circular motion to no-one in particular, the trick is to establish eye contact with a waiter you know, but to everyone else in the room it must look effortless. The need to call on a waiter you know is revealed now, you call him by his name, establishing familiarity and letting all other potential bad guyses in the room know that you are a frequenter there. The conversation may go a little something like this
                                                               i.      Waiter: Ah Welcome Sir/Ma, Long time
                                                             ii.      Bad Guys/Girls: Ehn, Elijah, Bawo, Ku jo meta (How are you, been a while)
                                                            iii.      Waiter: A dupe, se travel? (I am fine, have you been away?)
                                                           iv.      Bad Guys/Girls: Yes, I travelled on business (Killer Bad Guys move!!!!!)
                                                             v.      Waiter: Welcome back
                                                       vi.      Bad Guys/Girls: Thank you, let me have the usual. (Killer Bad Guys combo!!!!!!)

3. After you have established you are a bad guyses by the killer moves mentioned in B, you sit back and let the games begin, all other bad guys would have heard your conversation and have entered the game, or they didn’t pay attention because you they don’t play on the same level with you- they are either too much of a bad guyses or not bad guyses enough, in which case they are not your competition. Happy Games!!!

One such place where these senseless mind games are played is Clan Cafe. Other places where Bad Guys/Girls meet in the Capital like the Hilton Hotel, Beer Barn, Salamander Café are incidental or natural habitat of bad guys. The Clan Cafe isn’t. It knows exactly what it is, it is a deliberate attempt to woo high-class clientele; the Clan restaurant is open to members only. It is a place that serves the palate and the need for privacy. I visited The Clan Cafe in the early days when their doors were open to all and sundry. Hi, I am sundry. I had heard about the place from my friend and business partner, Simi, she is so much of a bad guys, we will simply refer to her as Chairwoman.

The Clan Café is located in the Maitama district of Abuja, a few hundred meters from the The Hilton Abuja, in an obscure building cut diagonally from the Court of Appeals. The building isn’t remarkable and it is easy to drive by a hundred times and never notice it was there, the architecture doesn’t beckon or attempt to draw you in. There are no bold signage’s to announce the building, it is almost like the architect wanted you to ignore it. This suits Clan Café perfect, located on the third floor, like the building that houses it, there is just a door, and no announcement or information. There are no windows for you to peek inside, just the door with a medusa head on it, it gives the feeling of walking into Narnia or joining a secret cult.

Clan Café wants to keep itself secret and the interior designers wants whoever walks through the door to want to keep the place a secret too. Wooden finishing, mahogany tables and matching brown leather sofa will make you want to keep it a secret, you automatically know that it is not a place for a crowd, or for jousting or loud discussions about which Premier League side is the best. It is a place you arrive in, a place where you can say as much as you want or little at all, a place of no expectation, just food and leisure.

I sat down and gestured for the menu, after glancing through a robust menu and wine section, I ordered the Chicken Ravioli and the Shrimp Scampi for starters and the Rigatoni Bella Lusia for my main meal. I glanced around the room once more and took in the elevated centre of the room complete with a small piano and three couches. The entire room had the feel of a lounge. There was a balcony that you could walk onto and view a good portion of the Maitama skyline, so I left the bar where I had settled and walked to a two-seater table and looked out to Maitama. I could make out the Maitama roundabout, and the British Rooftop Café, a ghost of its former self, since abandoned because of security threats. The idea of being in an anonymous location suddenly had its merits.

I had ordered a Chapman and it arrived in a thinner glass than usual, nicely played Clan. As I waited the sounds of Michael Bolton, Leanne Rimes and Lionel Richie would stream from the speakers gently, nothing against those artistes but I expected that with the mood lighting and general feel of the entire room I would be listening to smooth jazz. The crowd in the room was light and there was no one to play my favourite Abuja game of The I wonder how bad of a bad guys the other bad guy sitting across the room from me is?  with. 

My meal(s) arrived, and as sophisticated as Clan wants to be, it fell prey to the general practice of serving the starters and the main course all at once, crowding the table and giving the impression that the patron is greedier than s/he really is.

That aside, I started with the Shrimp Scampi and that was good as Scampi gets, I think I may have had enough of Scampi because it didn’t leave a bad taste in my mouth, but by the same token it wasn’t remarkable, much like the architecture of the building, I knew there was food in my mouth but it could just as well have been air. 

I moved onto the Chicken Ravioli which I was particularly curious about, my experience with Ravioli has been a cream based dish (shout out to Picolo Mondo) in Lagos, but what was on the table had more of a semblance to pepper soup more than anything else. On tasting it I confirmed what I had earlier suspected, it was Ravioli dipped in some variation of the Nigerian delicacy Pepper Soup. I credit the chef with what I want to believe is innovation, but like the Scampi it was occupying but it was easily forgettable.

His Piece de Resistance however was the Rigatoni Bella Lucia, which is basically a Chicken-Pasta dish, held together by white sauce, cheese and cream; and my greatest undoing was ordering the starters because dear lord, one taste of that meal and I felt the cynicism and apathy die in my mouth. It is the kinda food that can cause unemployment, because weeks after having the meal I was still daydreaming about it. I have always said that a good chef is the one that gives you sensory overload, confusing your palate so you don’t know which part of the meal you want to taste again, or which part tastes better if you nibble it alone, and which part of the meal cannot be taken out lest the meal collapse. This Chef was a good one.

He walked out while I was still cursing myself for having ordered the starters as I was already full, he was a giant of a man, towering well over my above average height of 6ft2. He stopped at each table introducing himself to every diner and asking how they enjoyed their meal, my table was last on his route and as he came closer I realised that as tall as he was he was just a tellytubby, he didn’t look threatening, which is all the better for me, as I plan to kidnap him in the not too distant future. He introduced himself as Simon, and I confirmed to him what I am sure he has heard many times before, he was a brilliant chef. As he made his way back into the kitchen, there was a knock in the door, and in walked a group of potential bad guys. I smiled to myself and quickly turned back to my food before they caught me staring, let the games begin!

The Clan Café is located in Clan Place on Tigris Crescent, Maitama, Abuja. The building after the NYSC Headquarters and diagonal from the Federal Court of Appeals.

Sidenote: I have since returned to Clan Café many more times, I tried the Roast Potatoes and Steak meal, it tasted like it was made for Zeus, I have also re-ordered the Rigatoni meal it is just as good if not better. This is all by way of saying that Simon is still excellent. The Clan Café has now restricted service to members whom I hear pay dues of N500, 000.00 yearly. God Bless Them.


 



Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Roaming Edition: A Love Affair With the Ocean in The Gambia

There are ways you live your life that make it seem like you are leaving parts of yourself hidden, not being the complete version of yourself- and certainly a place like the internet isn’t the place to always reveal so much information- however there are certain key elements of life or a person’s life without which there isn’t much of a person. And I have certainly run this space like one of those key institutions doesn’t exist, I shall hope to remedy that with this post.


I have had the privilege of sharing my life over the past three years with a remarkable woman and friend who has made life a collection of consummate experiences and who, outside of the location and dish will be the main focus of the consummate experience this time. Her name is Jade.


 Gambia, is the location of this consummate experience and while the what, why, when and how may intrigue you, suffice it to say that I carry Abj everywhere I go so it all tallies. Gambia, the small country on the coast of West Africa is host to about two million plus inhabitants, and is fast becoming the de facto destination for holiday makers in the West Africa. The Gambia as it is officially known is a stretch of country across the Atlantic and at any time British vacationers or other members of the European contingent can be found lying under the sun or walking the streets.


We arrived at Banjul International Airport, after what seemed an eternity in between Lagos and Freetown, Sierra Leone. During the flight we had slept and woke several times, we had eavesdropped on other conversations and wondered why the only male air steward was forever frowning- I have a theory for that but can’t share it as it won’t be politically correct. I also defeated Jade, try as she may at cards, which set the tone for the rest of the holiday. I rule.


Living the life that I have lived so far, I have a special affinity for airports, especially international airports, they are the first impression of a country, the first handshake if you will and while Banjul Airport was a nice fist bump it wasn’t the hearty slap on the back that the Nigerian Airport in comparison. I would find that other things would also pale in comparison.


 My eager fiancée and chief travel agent was first off the bus and encouraging me to take pictures of the airport to chronicle our sojourn, I am Johnny Depp cool and casually glided past, because although I was dressed like a tourist I was not about to affirm any one’s suspicions. Jade, knowing me began to take the pictures herself; at the time of this entry she had yet to prove to me what we would ever use those pictures for.


We cleared immigration with ease and our airport pickup was waiting with our names boldly written, good tidings. We got into the car and began to sip on our complimentary water from the hotel, and we were in the Gambia. As we drove on what looked to be a newly constructed highway I noticed the similarities with Nigeria, Gamcell the major phone network provider had their ads all over the place with claims of over 90 per cent of the market. Their President also had his picture on almost every billboard and streetlight just in case, in the five seconds it took you to move from one streetlight to another, you forgot who was President.


There were no traffic bottlenecks or logjams, expectedly given the population and no one seemed to be in a rush anywhere, even the air, which was dusty and gloomy, seemed to be happy to remain still. In a short time, we had moved into Brufut Gardens the Presidential area, and supposedly their version of Maitaima, Nigeria’s premium real-estate for the dead of conscience. The architecture was appealing while at the same time simple, nothing grandiose, no attempts to build a small republic and call it a house as my countrymen are so wont to do.


I was beating myself up over not having studied the history of the Gambia when we quickly arrived at the gates of the Sheraton Gambia Hotel, Resort and Spa and that’s when I saw her, glistening in the sun, gently swaying in the wind, her wide load evenly spread on the landscape – yeah break in transmission, if you don’t know I am talking about the ocean by now something is wrong with you and you are a pervert, I mean cmon! Jade was right next to me how would I be looking at another woman in front of her, not that I would look if she weren’t there, but you get my point- the Atlantic in all her glory. Jade was in charge of planning the trip, and while she had sent me several mails concerning the trip, I had glanced through them without detail. Being Johnny Depp cool, I rarely smile but on this occasion there wasn’t enough space between my ears and my mouth.


Check-in was processed, and Jade who is the stronger of us at bargaining dealt with the administrative things and I like a curious child wandered to the windows to behold the Atlantic, my saline lover. The Sheraton Gambia is built on a hill, with the reception on the top floor and the rooms cascading the rest of the hill in different places. It at once looks like an African village and an Arabian Harem, stretching a significant portion of the beach. I liked it because it made me focus on more than thing at a time, it was pleasant.


 Our room was on the beach, note not by the beach but on the beach, open the veranda window and you were a few hundred feet from the gentle washing of Amphitrite. Taking in God’s work and defying the laws of gravity with Arik works an appetite; we had missed lunch and so decided to order from the A La Carte menu. There was a fine selection but we settled on the Grilled Australian Beef Tenderloin (Well done), with roast potatoes, mushroom a la Greek, whole corn and black pepper sauce. All the ingredients come back to me easily, because it’s a dish to remember.


We waited a while but it was worth the wait, the steak was a generous helping and had been grilled just an inch of being burnt, it was tough but easy to cut and bounced around the teeth with ease, it wasn’t so strong that it felt like chewing gum and it wasn’t too soft that you swallowed it without tasting. The roasted potatoes were golden and had been salted so they looked like they were folded and wrapped into themselves; they met the fork with cooperation. The black pepper and the mushroom added savoury to a dish that was already excellent on its main helping- you can tell a chef has done his/her job when a dish confuses you, when you are caught between two minds whether to finish the food on time because your mouth is impatient or to be calm and enjoy it. Jade resolved that dilemma rather quickly because by the time I looked up to ask her if she liked it, there was nothing left to like.


We ordered the meal the next day but it was disappointing and obviously not the same chef. I asked.


Outside of the food and the Sheraton, there is a bit to see in the Gambia; they have developed their tourism industry to the point that you can pick a range of activities to do while there. There is the Makasoko Forest Reserve with a bit of widelife and floating villages , you can opt to go fishing for the day and sunbathe on the roof of fishing boats, you could opt for a golfing session, or a visit to the former slavery depot and learn about the origins of Kunta Kinte among a range of activities. We chose none, between eating, sleeping, swimming, beach walking and me trouncing Jade at cards and table tennis we were fully occupied.


There is a stretch of about half a kilometre that is known as the Senegambia Street, which is the main tourist area, it supposedly is meant to have restaurants and shops, casinos, clubs and restaurants. I think the Gambian expectation for a high brow area greatly differs from the Nigerian expectation. The African Crafts market may be a delight for our European brethren but as an African living in Africa you most likely won’t encounter anything to astound you, although a lot can be said about Jade negotiating skills, I had to walk out of stalls before I found myself begging that her price slashing was too much.


 Jade managed to convince me to go for a massage at the Sheraton Spa, which was a first for me. It was a mistake, in the end all they did was grease me, molest and slap me with calloused hands. I may as well have been a turkey.


I spent many early mornings sitting outside the room on the veranda watching the ocean; I watched it fall and rise over and over, just at the mouth though like it had a thousand words and they could be any answer to any question you asked. The Ocean; the Constant Conversation and it would keep speaking for many more hundred years. I quickly snapped out of my thoughts when the real answer to all my questions would wake from sleep, I’d realise then that there are better things in this life than far away beaches and endless oceans. Actually, there is just one. Jade.


The Sheraton Gambia Hotel Resort & Spa is located at Brufut Heights, Serrekunda; The Gambia. More information can be culled from www.sheraton.com/gambia and they are reachable on + 220 441 0889 and +220 775 4402


 Sidenote: All intending couples or married couples should buy a table-tennis set, it will do wonders, trust me.